A sunny future predicted for former Hiller's Red Sky

by LEN LEAR

You might say the family business for three generations of the Stein family, formerly of Chestnut Hill, Oreland and East Oak Lane, has been the restaurant business for 70 years. It was during the Great Depression that Samuel Stein opened the 100 Bar, one of the first in historic Old City, which stayed in the family until 1969.

"I grew up in it," said David Stein, 57. "I helped out at the bar on weekends while I was in high school and even in college and graduate school . . . For years my favorite restaurants were Roller's and Under the Blue Moon. I still go to Roller's all the time."

While living in East Oak Lane, David graduated in the 222nd class at Central High School. After earning a degree in textile management and marketing at Philadelphia College of Textiles & Sciences (now Philadelphia University) and a master's in business at Temple University, David worked with famous fashion designers in New York like Bill Blass and Betsy Johnson for six years. He even taught math in Camden public schools in 1968 and 1969. (David lived in the Chestnut Hill Village from 1972 to 1976, then five years in Oreland and ever since 1981 in Fort Washington.)

But that addiction called restaurant-itis was never fully purged from David's system in a 12-step program, and he wound up owning several corner bars in Philly neighborhoods. In the mid-'90s he purchased the Bethayres Tavern, which has been in Huntingdon Valley since the 1920s, and sold it last year.

"I always wanted to have a more upscale restaurant, and I finally decided to go for it," explained David.

And how. Late in 2002 he took over a two-century-old property at 224 Market St., formerly occupied by the City Critters Pet Store, and began a paws-itively expensive one-year renovation ($1 million). Finally, last December David and his son Scott, 28, who previously owned an internet marketing firm, opened Red Sky, named for the description of a perfect, calm sky after the passing of a storm.

The Steins refer to Red Sky as "New York's SoHo (industrial simplicity) meets Miami's South Beach (tropical sophistication)." The first-floor dining room, which seats 45, and second-floor mezzanine feature lime green tile floors, a glowing blue aliminum staircase, custom-designed black leather banquettes, ottomans and steel tables. (The mezzanine is also rented out for private parties.) Two-story windows look out onto 30 outdoor seats , which were all filled during our recent mid-week visit.

Red Sky offers about two dozen specialty drinks, e.g., an espresso martini with ketel vodka, Kahlua, Bailey's Irish Cream and espresso in a cinnamon crunch-rimmed glass ($8). At 10 p.m. dinner service stops, and the second floor becomes a dimly-lit lounge with deejays spinning music for the 21 to 35 set until 2 a.m. Some people might say that Old City needs another martini bar/lounge/restaurant about as much as "The Swan" needs more cosmetic surgery, but there seems to be enough business to go around.

The Steins are serious about offering fine food, not just selling drinks. They recruited as their executive chef Michael Salvitti, another Central High graduate, who had put Audrey Clare on the culinary map. Salvitti's "New American" cuisine is offered as small plates, "share plates" (to encourage interaction and flirtation, as if they need encouragement) and large plates. Most appetizers are from $8 to $10, most entrees from $18 to $24. There is no lunch service for now, though that may change.

The most popular entree is probably Salvitti's signature seared tuna with five-spice potatoes. Interesting side dishes include polenta fries and lobster porcini risotto. I don't think we have ever had more voluptuous and sensuous desserts than the silken homemade chocolate caramel brulee and the sublime chocolate almond crunch, a chocolate chip almond cake layered with chocolate cream and chocolate squares ($7.50 each).

For more information, call 215-925-8080 or visit www.redskylounge.com