Mt. Airyite’s tea house turning over a new leaf

By LEN LEAR

Mt. Airy resident John Wicks, whose background is in audio production, was approached by a friend, Wharton Business School junior Kun Hsu, with a business idea in the spring of 2000. Hsu suggested that some enterprising businessperson could be very successful by being the first to bring “Bubble Tea” to Philadelphia, and that businessperson might as well be Wicks. Hsu, a native of Toronto, said there were at least 10 “bubble houses” in his hometown. He added, though, that just because someone had a good business concept, there was no guarantee it would be successfully executed.

“I had no idea what ­he was talking about,” recalled Wicks, 51, brother of Judy Wicks, well known peace activist and owner of the White Dog Cafe, “but after reviewing his excellent business plan and doing research in a few other cities, I began to like the idea more and more. For this area, though, I did not think the concept would be successful without excellent food being in the mix.”

For those not familiar with it, Bubble Tea is a beverage that was developed in Taiwan with a base of black or green tea. It is available in a large variety of flavors (lattés, fruit flavors and sours), served iced or hot. It is presented in a tall glass at the bottom of which are chewy, slightly sweetened tapioca powder balls made from a sweet potato extract (they are the “bubbles”), which are sipped through an oversized straw. It’s like a combination of fruit, rubbery Gummi Bears and a milkshake. You try to get at least one “bubble” per sip and slurp up those that are left on the bottom of the glass.

“They are very difficult to make, which fascinated me,” explained Wicks. “If you undercook the bubbles, they become chewy in a bad way, and if you overcook them, they get slimy. They have to be cooked just right.”

Wicks eventually became so hooked on the product and the business idea that he was able to attract as business partners another Wharton student and a recent Wharton graduate in addition to Kun Hsu. In November, 2001, they opened Bubble House — a 75-seat Asian-style tearoom with lots of space, gorgeous windows and woodworking, atmospheric lighting, etc. — at 3404 Sansom St. in University City. Wicks was already the landlord of the property, which previously housed Le Bus Bakery. The three Wharton youths all contributed borrowed money and lots of sweat in renovating the building. (Since that time, Wicks has bought out his partners and is now sole owner.)

Wicks grew up in a northern suburb of Pittsburgh, graduated from Amherst College in Western Massachusetts in 1975 and moved to Philadelphia in 1977.

He owned a recording studio and was an independent record producer until 2000-2001.

Wicks moved to Mt. Airy in May, 2003. “My daughter Maxine goes to the Philadelphia Children's School in Mt Airy,” he explained, “and my wife wisely suggested that we relocate closer to the school. We all love living in Mt Airy. We are 80 yards from Cresheim Valley, 150 yards from the train and a minute by car from ‘The Hill.’ We enjoy our neighbors and the general vibe of the region greatly. America could learn much from Mt Airy's strong sense of community, especially considering the diverse nature of its residents.” 

Wicks’ Bubble House is part South Philly — with exposed rowhouse brick walls — and part Japanese tea house with Japanese furnishings, wide-plank wooden floors, hanging plants, artwork and booths separated by lattice work. University City’s substantial Asian student population has turned Bubble House into an extra-curricular classroom/study hall (there is a large lounge) but many other students, faculty members and workers frequent the place as well. There is a long bar where the teas are prepared, but no alcohol.

The basic Bubble Tea is served in a 16-ounce Hurricane glass for $2.95. A larger size costs more, as do extra fruit flavors and one made with loose leaf tea. There are more than two dozen flavors to choose from, including coconut, vanilla, peach, mango, strawberry, banana, blueberry, almond, coffee, chocolate, mint and pineapple.

In addition to the teas “you can sink your teeth into” (Wicks’ line), Bubble House offers a menu with influences from Thailand, Vietnam, China, Korea and Japan. Many of the dishes were inspired by Wicks’ travels. “I was at a dance music conference in South Beach (Miami),” he explained, “and I had a curry dish in a Thai restaurant that was so good, I knew we had to have it. I guessed at what ingredients I needed, and it was one of the few dishes I nailed on the first try. Now it is our Thai red coconut curry.”

Most salads and soups are between $2.95 and $7.95, appetizers and sandwiches between $3.25 and $7.95 and entrees between $6.95 to $10.95 at lunch and $7.95 to $14.95 at dinner. Possibly the most popular dish is the Vietnamese hoagie ($5.25, available only at lunchtime), which is offered with a choice of grilled marinated chicken or lemongrass pork. For more information, call 215-243-0804.