May 8, 2008 Issue                                       

©2007 The Chestnut Hill Local

A little bit of Cuba now a part of Chestnut Hill
by PAT STOKES

Miguel Castaneda is the proud owner of ¡Cuba!, the much-anticipated restaurant which opened Sunday at 8609 Germantown Ave. (Photo by Pat Stokes)

Once, in the far-off past of the 1930s, there was a song called, I think “Weekend in Havana,” about a starry-eyed steno’s vacation. She sang: “I went to Havana, on one of those cruises, for forty-nine fifty, to spend a few days.” It’s sung to a catchy Cuban beat. The girl has a divine time, meets a cute guy, etc. In the end, when it’s time for her to board the boat, she sings, “Though I delayed it, even dropped my shawl, the Cuban made it, as they gave the final call. Darn it all.”

Good news! That girl doesn’t have to head for Havana any more. It’s here on the Avenue right now, in the form of the most Cuban of restaurants, called, or course, ¡Cuba!, 8609 Germantown Ave. This “with it” little spot is, to my way of thinking, just what this little town needs. It opened for business Sunday, May 4.

Seated at one of the tables, owner Miguel Castaneda enthusiastically tells how it came about. In a classic happening, one day in October, 2007, he was having lunch at another restaurant (now closed) when someone suggested he open a restaurant of his own. Suddenly, the idea seemed quite enticing. The present space was available; how could he say no?

So here we are in a space that’s looking decidedly Cuban by way of super-sized paintings of Cuban interiors, on walls that are painted in what Miguel calls the Cuban manner. Meaning, when there isn’t much paint to be had, you simply take a few cans of whatever paint is around and put it on the walls in wide, cheerful strokes. In this case the color of choice is creamy yellow on white, creating a lively, sunny setting.

In business with Miguel is his son, Michael. He’s a corporate trainer for the PF Chang high-end Chinese bistros, and also a consultant for restaurants in Florida. The kitchen staffers are all culinary masters, born in Cuba, and the head chef even had his own restaurant there.

Then of course, there’s the music, bringing back the Cuba of the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s, with touches of modern Latin jazz. There will be live music every other Friday evening, often played by Alberto Aguilera, who learned from members of the world-famous Buena Vista Social Club. A friend of Alberto’s, Piquet di Rivera, who has won at least 10 Grammy awards for his playing, will come by, too, from time to time. “On certain evenings,” says Miguel, “we’ll recreate Noche de Feelings, when the music tells of romance, and when, as in Cuba, one brings one’s lover for a beautiful romantic evening.” This is the kind of thing his grandparents liked to do in their restaurant, Demi’s in the Bronx.

“It’s a going back to the things one has always treasured, and now, it’s cool! That going back is expressed perfectly in the words of a song, ‘Viva la Tradicion,’ made famous by Gloria Estefan, that tells of preserving the things that are precious.” It seems so right that this place dedicated so passionately to preserving tradition should be here in Chestnut Hill, in the very heart of history and care for the past while celebrating the innovations of the present.

And speaking of preserving things, how about this tale of the tables and the bar? Todd Detwiler, longtime friend from Western Pennsylvania, is a carpenter who had some fine old oak wood stashed in his garage for 18 years. Of course, he made by hand the tables and chairs, just as they would be done in Cuba!

Miguel describes a bar in Havana called Bodegita de Medio, meaning “The Little Store in the Middle.” The story goes that it was a hangout for Hemingway, and a spot where many fine musicians got their start. An outstanding feature of Miguel’s handmade bar is that Todd’s beautiful Spanish cedar  wood that forms the front of it curves around one end, just like the one in Havana.

As we stand in admiration, Miguel pridefully calls my attention to the mismatched tiles in the bar floor. “It’s on purpose,” he says. And it’s so-o-o-o Cuban!

On this my second visit to ¡Cuba!, the tables are all set up, looking elegant and festive. Now at last, we speak of food. (More on the subject will be covered in a future issue of the Local.)

For now, here’s a glimpse of the menu’s high spots:

For lunch, meat and vegetable Cuban stew and other tempting soups; small plates with tamales, Cuban ham or chicken croquettes, a variety of sandwiches on Cuban flattened bread; dinner entrees include beef, chicken, pork, salmon and many other selections with traditional Cuban ingredients and names; desserts: Flan (like crème caramel), coconut or mango with cream cheese, assorted ice creams, etc.

Call 215-967-1477. See you on the Avenue.