by Pete Mazzaccaro

I first tried a non-alcoholic beer just last November. The occasion was this: My wife suggested I join her for a “dry November.” A dry month, for those who haven’t heard the term before, is a commitment to refrain from drinking any alcohol for a month. The purpose, as far as I can tell, is to experience what life is like without alcohol and perhaps find that you’re ultimately better off without booze.

Knowing that this was not likely for me, I suggested a compromise. We would refrain from drinking on weekdays during November and allow ourselves a few drinks on the weekend. My wife agreed, and I understood then that even a dry week would be difficult.

I’m not a big drinker, but I do like beer and wine. And I think I can say pretty confidently that I don’t like them because of the alcohol. I really like the taste. So I thought I would explore the world of craft non-alcoholic beer and discovered a really great brewery from Connecticut called Athletic Brewing.

The company is a small brewery in Stratford, Connecticut, that was started by a former stockbroker who wanted to do something simple but heretofore not accomplished: Brew a non-alcoholic beer that doesn’t sacrifice much in way of taste.

As simple as that sounds, I was skeptical. Over the summer, I had sampled a lot of low-alcohol, low-calorie beers that have gained in popularity including Dogfish Head’s Slightly Mighty and Harpoon’s Rec League. Both were good, but sacrificed significant taste by carving out calories.

Athletic not only managed to make good beer without the alcohol, but did so in a way that I found was even better tasting than those low-calorie brews.

It’s worth noting here that the company’s brews – like most non-alcoholic beer – are not technically alcohol-free. Each can has less than 0.5% alcohol per volume, which allows it to be labeled non-alcoholic. And for those interested, the calorie counts range from about 50 to 85 calories a can, which is less than you’d consume if you had a Miller Lite.

Over the course of November, I survived my alcohol-free week with one or two Athletic brews a night. I started with the company’s Cerveza Athletica, a non-alcoholic take on a Mexican Lager. It was not very good, but as I tried other beers by the company, I found each to be better than the last. My next six-pack was the company’s golden ale called Upside Dawn. It was mildly hoppy and balanced. I thought this was a non-alcoholic brew that was a fair substitute for the real thing, but it would get even better.

I followed that with Run Wild IPA. One of the company’s mainstays, Run Wild was so good that if I didn’t know beforehand that it was a non-alcoholic brew, I might not have guessed it. The two other beers I tried were also outstanding: Stump Jump fall ale, a smooth, brown malty beverage, and Free Way Double IPA, an extra hoppy craft brew that was my favorite of the bunch. All three were worthy substitutes for the real thing. There’s plenty of beer taste and no buzz.

The takeaway for me is this: For those of us who might like to drink less in general or even give it up entirely, non-alcoholic beers like those made by Athletic will make that commitment much easier. If you’re planning on a dry January, or even just trying to find a way to drink less during the week, give these non-alcoholic brews a try. More than just a substitute, these beers are quite good on their own.

Athletic Brewing Co. beer is not found everywhere beer is sold, but it can be found locally at Brewer’s Outlet in Mt. Airy, 7401 Germantown Avenue. Six-packs range from $10.99 to $12.99. Visit AthleticBrewing.com for more information.