Carved pumpkins and ornamental gourds start to decorate porches and front yards as Halloween approaches, but my kitchen counters and pantry shelves grow a collection of various winter squash. Let’s revisit another early “slice it, dice it” as sweet and nutty winter squashes come into season.

Yes, winter squash skin is edible, but that doesn’t mean that all squash skins are tasty. As a rule, smaller varietals like acorn, delicata, honeynut and even kabocha skins can be tender enough to eat. Others, especially bigger ones, have rinds that are too tough and stringy when cooked and are best to peel. Or you can remove the sweet and tender flesh after cooking.

Most squash can be roasted, simmered or steamed with the skin on; the flesh will be far easier to remove from the outer rind. It’s important to decide whether your vegetable peeler is up to the task and whether clean cubes matter for what you’re doing. FYI, uncooked squash skins are a rare source of irritant contact dermatitis, so putting on a pair of gloves can help to avoid an adverse reaction.

A properly sharpened knife is key for hard winter squash prep. A dull knife will struggle to cut through a tough rind and even can roll off the hard skin, leaving the preparer open to injury. To cut most squash in half, remove a bit off the bottom and top ends to provide a flat surface. Then cut down the center to clean out the seeds inside.

Most squash can be cooked whole, but cutting them in half or in smaller sections can make it cook quicker. A halved squash can be cooked cut-side down on a baking sheet, which allows the sweet flesh to caramelize. Or the sections can be wrapped in foil and allowed to cook more gently from the trapped steam.

You also can simmer hard winter squashes in broth; cut the pieces into similar sizes and barely cover them with the cooking liquid. A drop lid, or even an improvised one made of foil with small vent holes, will keep the pieces from moving too much in the simmering liquid and breaking apart. This also will help prevent evaporation of the cooking liquid.

Winter squash can be intimidating to cook at home. Some can be quite large and hard to peel, but all those varieties beyond butternut are worth exploring and can work as part of a well-planned or even unplanned meal. A slow morning or free afternoon on the weekend can be utilized to roast off a Red Kuri, Hubbard or other large squash that then can be added into various meals during the week. When cooked simply and flavored as needed, they can leave you with a versatile and delicious vegetable to use throughout the week.